Jess Blumensheid
Writer | Editor | Nomad


Notes from Croatia

  • Breakfast is a jam- or chocolate-filled croissant and kava s mlijekom (coffee with milk).
  • Lunch is the main meal. Goulash here is meat, egg, potatoes — little peas and carrots.
  • Dinner is a plate of cheeses with bread, and late at night, when the many liters of Ozujsko leave you hungry, you have pizza or a greasy kebabs, one of the main signs of gentrification in Croatian cities. 
  • Historical relics abound and are visible in Zagreb's infrastructure, such as the old wall separating what was once the Peasant City from the Clergy City — the old town that hosts the capital city's communist-era government and financial buildings.
  • Dogs are seldom held on leashes; they follow their owners like loyal servants, wherever they go. Stray cats rule the streets.
  • Teenagers untie their love on park benches, dark-lit schoolyards and well-packed bars and sidewalk cafes.